Could it be the coffee shops? The bike riding lifestyle? Or the brick roads of the city center? No one was running on the streets of Amsterdam. My 3 guide books say nothing on the subject of running. Our smashing hotel staff suggest running in Vondelpark, the largest park in Amsterdam.
I take an easy-to-manage tram to Vondlepark. At 8:30 am, the park is serene and verdant. Runners are doing their thing! A 4K asphalt bike route and a dirt path ring the park (with straightforward signs to guide me.) While running, I spot a tree full of green parrots! The grand Filmmuseum of Amsterdam (with requisite café) is located mid-park. Stately homes on tiny canals line the perimeter. Some vintage Clash and New Order (thanks John!…see Best Running Music) feels right as I circle the park a few times. Want to find this run? Check it out at www.stepwhere.com. This great site lets you zoom in and follow the path step by step.
The Dutch, the tallest people on earth, are invariably fit and great looking. We see few cars in the city and nonstop bikes. People of all ages and manners of dress ride them. The bikes are often decorated with Mexican oilcloth bike bags. The fashion: think Eileen Fisher goes Scandinavian hippie princess. Men and women wear messenger bags of smart design; a jewelry of sorts.
The bike riders are patient with Karen (quirky art teacher and treasured old friend) and I as we inadvertently step into the bike lane (watch out!!) People seem relaxed, open and friendly. In a country where tolerance prevails and people are directly connected to their environment, who needs to run and run? Very often, we spot men with their children. Is there a saner work/family dynamic here?
Coffee shops are not the totality of Amsterdam. In fact, the Dutch smoke less marijuana per capita then Americans. Coffee shops have a diverse vibe and clientele. Many are quite civilized and economical. Others are filled with exuberant kids with unfortunate tee shirts.
When it comes to getting around, Amsterdam is the great leveler. The city is not built on a grid. The canals ring the city in a mind boggling manner. On any given corner, people from all walks of life can be found scowling at their maps. The coffee shops cannot be helping this effort!
We visit the Van Gogh Museum. Only 1 wing of the Rijksmuseum is currently open due to renovation. We take in the spectacular Rembrandts, still lives and Vermeers. The fantastic modern art Stedelijk Museum is also currently closed for renovation. Some of its art can be found in the Van Gogh Museum.
We thoroughly enjoyed:
-The Museum of Bags and Purses/The Tassenmuseum–bags from the 1500’s to modern times. Words fail to describe these treasures!
-We caught Public Enemy at the opulent art deco Tuschinski Theatre.
-The Hermitage/Amsterdam, opened in 6/09, is an airy space filled with riches from the Hermitage Museum in St. Petersburg. I was especially taken by the czarina dresses; sumptuous velvets with mirrors and to-die-for embroidery.
-The Amsterdam Public Library, the largest public library in Europe, was built in 2007 by Joe Coenen. This place defines visionary architecture.
-The markets- Albert Cuypmarkt, Westerstraat
-The FOAM contemporary photography museum
We relished the Netherland’s hearty bread, butter, cheeses and apple cake. Terrific Asian (Thai, Indonesian, Surinamese and Chinese) restaurants can be found everywhere. Most restaurants and stores do not accept credit cards.
Our magnificent hotel, the Grand Hotel Amrath, served for a decade as a major shipping office. It is replete with high ceilings, art nouveau décor, charming canal views, a fabulous pool and a FREE minibar every night! The staff is charming, friendly and quite literate (our young porter was fluent in 5 languages.) We purchased our rooms for $130.00 dollars per night via Hotwire. A recent NY Times column, Save or Splurge, Amsterdam on a $1000 Dollars a Day, recommended the Amrath! Could this trip get any better?
{ 7 comments… read them below or add one }
I am the quirky art teacher and treasured old friend (aka Karen) who accompanied (but did not run) with Jamie to Amsterdam. I do not run but do wander. Especially when trying to navigate the streets/canals of Amsterdam. My bold pace is found with the pursuit of contemporary art (and the occasional bike ride). I believe everyone should make plans to visit Amsterdam at least once in their lifetime to fully experience a society mired in beauty and tolerance. While I was chided by many before our trip about the Red Light District and open use of marijuana/hashish I found those aspects to be minimal at most. Here is a city that offers art virtually everywhere, fantastic eclectic food, tolerance to the hilt and folks who embrace slowing down and enjoying the beauty of a simple life. Consumerism showed itself to be the 800 pound gorilla in America’s room as it was obviously absent in Amsterdam. Of course I came home with my fare share of bought goodies (who could resist?) but hopefully absorbed at least a bit of the Dutch lifestyle. I will live for the day, enjoy a leisurely meal with family and friends, and try to be tolerant to all…unless they get in the path of my bike that is!
I’m a running expat living in the Netherlands and completely agree that the Vondel Park is a great place to run. I also love the Handbag Museum. In fact, I’m having my birthday party there on Sunday.
tot ziens
mswoodenshoes.blogspot.com
Oh, and those green parrots? Regular visitors to my backyard. My kids love it!
I thoroughly enjoyed your blog!
I related to your description as someone who runs—-I ran 4 marathons but do not characterize myself as a marathon runner! Good luck with your new writing gig.
The Tassenmuseum might be the world’s most brilliant locale for a birthday bash!
Good luck on your race!
Love your blog and honest writing as well! I am absolutely pea-green with envy for your birthday bash at the Tassenmuseum! We will all lift a glass to the east in your honor, close our eyes and wish we were there with you! Best of luck on all your runs. I’ve been riding my bike more often with thoughts of women in skirts and high heels riding bikes on their way to work in Amsterdam. I keep my eyes open and still wish I were there. Enjoy all your travels and keep writing!
That looks like a really nice place to run! The US has some pretty has some pretty nice places, but Amsterdam is not like anything I’ve ever seen before.
.-= SDrunner´s last blog ..Race Photos: America’s Finest City 5K Run =-.
SDrunner-
Where is your absolute favorite place to run?
Your blog looks smart!